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Research Article

Propolis inspired sunscreens for efficient UV-protection and skin barrier maintenance

Yu Fu1,§Ruoyu Wan2,§Lei Yang1Lidan Xiong2,3Junfei Hu1Jie Tang2,3Hailun He2Zhipeng Gu1( ) Li Li2,3( )Yiwen Li1,3 ( )
College of Polymer Science and Engineering, State Key Laboratory of Polymer Materials Engineering, Sichuan University, Chengdu 610065, China
Cosmetics Safety and Efficacy Evaluation Center, Department of Dermatology, West China Hospital, Sichuan University, Chengdu 610041, China
NMPA Key Laboratory for Human Evaluation and Big Data of Cosmetics, Chengdu 610041, China

§ Yu Fu and Ruoyu Wan contributed equally to this work.

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Abstract

The direct use of naturally occurring, small molecular ingredients in bioinspired sunscreens has raised several concerns due to the instability, photocytotoxicity, and potential blood toxicity of those ingredients. In this work, we have employed natural ultraviolet (UV)-blocking molecule caffeic acid phenethyl ester (CAPE) from propolis to prepare poly(CAPE) nanoparticles (NPs) as the main bioactive ingredient to fabricate propolis-inspired hydrogel sunscreens. Compared with small molecular CAPE, poly(CAPE) NPs exhibited better dispersion and stability in water, as well as lower physiological toxicity and skin permeability. And the resulting composite hydrogels demonstrated promising properties including water-resistant whereas can be easily erased by warm water as well as safety when interacting with skin. More importantly, the hydrogel sunscreens showed excellent UV protection properties both in vitro and in vivo, and the positive effects in maintaining skin barrier functions. This work provides new strategies towards the facile construction of nature-inspired robust sunscreens in the future.

Graphical Abstract

We utilized the natural ultraviolet (UV)-blocking molecule caffeic acid phenethyl ester (CAPE) in propolis to prepare a composite propolis sunscreen hydrogel with poly(CAPE) nanoparticles (NPs) as the main component. The novel composite sunscreen hydrogel has good in vivo and in vitro UV protection performance and excellent skin barrier maintenance ability.

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Nano Research
Pages 8237-8246

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Cite this article:
Fu Y, Wan R, Yang L, et al. Propolis inspired sunscreens for efficient UV-protection and skin barrier maintenance. Nano Research, 2022, 15(9): 8237-8246. https://doi.org/10.1007/s12274-022-4434-z
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Received: 26 March 2022
Revised: 13 April 2022
Accepted: 14 April 2022
Published: 19 May 2022
© Tsinghua University Press 2022